Tuesday, September 11, 2012

A couple of days in Scotland


I didn't have any real expectations of eating in Scotland - yeah, I've heard that they deep fry Mars bars and possibly pizzas but who am I to judge? I come from a land where people cook mac 'n cheese-- bake it, freeze it and then deep fry it (I've never had it myself but it sounds deliciously disgusting). We were there for the Scotch tour, so I decided before that food wouldn't be the star of this visit. 


Boy, was I wrong. Scottish food was a pleasant surprise and a culinary experience. Unlike some places where local ingredients mean premium prices--all the restaurants and bistros I patronized featured local ingredients all at affordable prices. Also, the people in Islay are also very accomodating and friendly- I had a great time, ate a lot of interesting meals and I look forward to my next visit.
Whitebait
Falls of Lora Hotel - Connel Ferry, by Oban, Argyll, PA37 1PB, Scotland

The food and service was amazing.  We arrived for dinner just after the kitchen had closed and there was only one other group of people in the whole restaurant. Despite our bad timing--the kitchen was willing to turn the ovens back on for us and offer us the full menu.  I ordered the Whitebait and it was delicous. Crispy on the outside and moist on the inside. Perfectly seasoned and light. I also tried the Fish and Chips - lightly coated and crispy. Delicious and moist on the inside. Sometimes I have a tendency to just eat the fish and leave the fried coating (because it's too stodgy) but in this case-- the thought never crossed my mind. I also tried the Lamb and potatoes with stuffing. I was anticipating something heavy but it was a delicately prepared but not delicate in flavor at all. 

In the morning, the hotel offers a full three course breakfast which was lovely. I wasn't feeling hungry--so I ordered the yogurt, fruit plate, and sliced ham and cheese. I ended up wrapping up the ham and cheese and taking some toast for later when I would inevitably get hungry on the ferry.

The Islay Hotel Charlotte Street, Port Ellen, Isle of Islay, PA42 7DF Scotland




Oh man, what didn't I eat off the Islay Hotel menu? We stayed there for several days and I looked forward to every dinner. 

Loch Gruinart Oysters- so fresh all you need is lemon juice. 

Scallops with Peas- Sweet Scallops over a sweet peas puree with bacon (this was so good that Adam ordered it the next night) 


Mussels with Sea Bass - this was a bit of a disappointment because it was well cooked but there was no real flavor to the dish


Haggis- I hate Haggis and the idea of Haggis but this was delicious. It was spicy and meaty but not gamey

Crab Cake - Flavorful but mostly potato

The Old Kiln Cafe - Ardbeg Distillery - Port Ellen, PA42 7EA, Scotland 


I am a big fan of Ardbeg after visiting the Distillery. Not only does the Cafe serve good and honest food but the staff was lovely (in fact our tour guide turned into our waitress after 12 o'clock). 

The day we visited it was cold and rainy so I was delighted when I found lots of comfort food on the menu. I ordered the Mussels in a white wine sauce and the Smoked Ham, Mozzarella and Red Onion Baguette (for dipping, of course!). This meal was everything I needed it to be and with such simple ingredients it did not disappoint.

Port Askaig Hotel - Port Askaig, Isle of Islay, PA46 7RD, Scotland



On our way back to Wales, we had some time to kill so we decided to break bread at the only Restaurant near the Ferry Terminal. The ambience was stale, the Christmas lights July a little corny but my meal was out of the ball park. I ordered the Sea Bass and it was quite easily the best meal I ate in Scotland. The portion of fish was generous and the price affordable. The skin was pan seared and crispy but the flesh was buttery (not to be confused with greasy). The beans were very fresh and sweet and the potatoes were cooked perfectly. In fact, the whole meal was perfect.

Scotland, I love you.

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